Introduction
In the previous chapter regarding Muslim travelers in the Artuqid principality, I described the journey of Ibn Jubayr; this time, we focus on the most famous Muslim traveler of all: Ibn Battuta. In 1326, Ibn Battuta visited Mardin – a city in southeastern Turkey, the capital of the province, and one of the two major cities of the Artuqid principalities. The city remains renowned today for its Artuqid architecture. This visit is more significant than that of Ibn Jubayr, who merely skirted the edges of the Artuqid principality; however, more than a century had passed since Al-Jazari’s death, and a different branch of the Artuqids ruled Mardin. Can anything be learned from Ibn Battuta’s journey regarding Al-Jazari’s book?
Ibn Battuta
Abu Abdallah Muhammad Ibn Battuta (ابو عبد الله محمد بن بطُوطة) was born in Tangier in 1304; the exact year of his death is uncertain, though it likely occurred in Morocco between 1368 and 1369. After studying religion and law, he set out on his first Hajj (the pilgrimage to Mecca and one of the five “Pillars of Islam”) in 1325. He traveled throughout the Muslim world—from Tangier to Iran—and undertook the traditional pilgrimage to Mecca, yet he also ventured beyond the standard routes, traveling as far as the east coast of Africa, reaching present-day Zanzibar and Tanzania.
Over the course of his life, he would make the pilgrimage to Mecca seven times, each time following a different route. Later, at the invitation of the Sultan of Delhi, he traveled to India, passing through Asia Minor and present-day Afghanistan. From India, he continued his journeys to the southern islands and Sumatra, and even reached China. On his final journey, he toured North Africa and the Sahara Desert, returning to Morocco only in 1354—after nearly 30 years. It has been calculated that his travels spanned nearly 120,000 kilometers—equivalent to circling the globe three times, or roughly four times the distance covered by his predecessor, Marco Polo. It is no wonder he is considered the greatest Muslim traveler of all time.
Ibn Battuta did not record his experiences in real-time; it was only upon his return that the Sultan of Morocco ordered him to write the story of his travels, even assigning the Andalusian scholar Ibn Juzayy (ابن جزي) to assist him. It remains unclear whether the book’s numerous exaggerations and shameless instances of plagiarism—borrowing from the works of others—stem from the long passage of time before the writing took place or from Ibn Juzayy’s own handiwork. His account of the Artuqid principality offers examples of both such plagiarism and factual errors. Nevertheless, The Travels of Ibn Battuta (رحلة ابن بطوطة) stands as a classic of Islamic culture, providing a vivid picture of the medieval world—including customs, religions, rituals, daily life, commerce, and agriculture—alongside the anecdotes and stories he gathered during his journeys. This wealth of information transforms the book into a veritable historical and cultural encyclopedia of the era.

Travels of Ibn Battuta, Encyclopædia Britannica https://www.britannica.com/biography/Ibn-Battuta
The Visit to the Artuqid Principality
In May 1326, Ibn Battuta set out from Baghdad toward the Artuqid principality. His journey took him past the fortress of Al-Ma’shuq; this is likely the Al-Ashiq Palace (قصر العاشق), built on the banks of the Tigris—on the western side of Samarra—by the Caliph Al-Mu’tamid, who ruled Baghdad in the late 9th century. He subsequently passed through Tikrit—Saddam Hussein’s birthplace—before reaching Mosul. These regions are less relevant to our topic, and Mosul itself was never under Artuqid rule. The most interesting—and perhaps surprising—part, to my mind, is the early description of oil deposits found right on the surface, requiring no drilling:
” Then we set out and stopped at a place known as al-Qayyāra (القيارة), near the Tigris. There is black ground there, containing springs from which bitumen wells up, and basins are made for it. It collects in them, and you see it on the surface of the ground resembling clay, intensely black in color, smooth and moist, with a pleasant smell.”
(All translations are mine from Arabic)
From there, Ibn Battuta arrived in Nisibin(نصيبين); his description appears to have been copied from Ibn Jubayr, including the quotation of Abu Nuwas’s poem. Subsequently, Ibn Battuta recounts traveling to the city of Sinjar (سنجار) -likely an error, as Sinjar is located in the Nineveh Governorate of northwestern Iraq (125 km west of Mosul) and does not lie on the route to the Artuqid principality situated north of Nisibin.
“We then departed from there (Dara- دارا) and arrived at the city of Mardin (ماردين). It is a magnificent city situated on a mountain plateau—one of the finest, most exquisite, and best-constructed cities in the Islamic world, boasting superb markets. It is the place where garments are manufactured from the wool known as mar’az ((المرعز- a fabric that takes its name from the city”
It is somewhat surprising that an experienced traveler like Ibn Battuta—who visited major Islamic cities such as Cairo, Mecca, Damascus, Aleppo, and Baghdad—described it as one of the most beautiful cities in the Islamic world:
” من أحسن مدن الإسلام”
Singling out the Artuqid capital of a tiny principality for such praise when compared to the great centers of the Islamic world.
Ibn Juzayy goes on to elaborate on the castle in Mardin:
“This citadel of Mardin is known as the Grey One (الشهباء); it is the very one the 14th-century poet of Iraqi origin, who became the court poet in the Artuqid principality of Mardin, Safi al-Din Abd al-Aziz ibn Saraya al-Hilli (صفي الدين عبد العزيز بن سراي الحلي) alluded to in his Musammat (مُسَمَّط) [an Arabic poetic form], where he said(roughly):
Leave behind the spacious quarters of al-Ḥilla,
and turn your white camels away from al-Zawrāʾ [Baghdad];
do not halt at hump-backed Mosul,
for the lightning-flash of the White/Grey Fortress [of Mardin]
burns up the demon of Fortune’s vicissitudes.
The poem praises Mardin in comparison to other major cities of the era-Al-Hillah, Baghdad, and Mosul-asserting that none of them equal it. Ibn Juzayy then explains:
The poem was dedicated to the ruler of Mardin, the Artuqid King Al-Mansur Najm al-Din Ghazi II (المنصور نجم الدين غازي ) – known in history as a great lover of beauty – who warned invaders of Mardin not to trample the roses in his favorite garden.
Ibn Baṭūṭa then goes on to describe the reigning Sultan of Mardin, the son of the aforementioned Al-Manṣūr. Ibn Baṭūṭa refers to him as Al-Malik al-Ṣāliḥ; he reigned in Mardin from 1312 to 1364 CE. He recounts the ruler’s great generosity and provides an example:
“He is Al-Malik Al-Salih, son of Al-Malik Al-Mansur—whom we mentioned earlier—and he inherited the kingship from his father, becoming renowned for his noble generosity. Throughout the lands of Iraq, the Levant, and Egypt, there was no one more generous than he; poets and the needy would flock to him, and he would bestow lavish gifts upon them, following his father’s footsteps. Abu Ubayd Allah Muhammad ibn Jabir al-Andalusi al-Marwi al-Kufi once came to him with praise, and he rewarded him with twenty thousand dirhams.”
The final paragraph offers a glimpse into the activities of the ruler of Mardin:
“He established charitable endowments, Madrasa(المدارس-Higher education institutions in the Muslim world), and religious lodges(الزوايا) to provide food for the needy. He had a vizier of great stature-the learned Imam, the peerless scholar of his age, Jalal al-Din al-Sinjawi, who had studied in Tabriz and sat with eminent scholars-as well as a Chief Justice, the accomplished Imam Burhan al-Din al-Mawsili. He traces his spiritual lineage back to the saintly Sheikh Fath al-Mawsili; this judge is a man of piety, devoutness, and virtue. He wears coarse woolen garments worth no more than ten dirhams and a turban of similar simplicity.
Thus, his agenda-at least in this passage-is classically Islamic, encompassing charity, Islamic education, and a form of shelter for guests and the needy. He also praises the Chief Qadi, noting in particular his humility and the fact that he wears woolen garments worth less than ten dirhams. I have found no other references to the vizier or the Qadi beyond those in Ibn Battuta’s account. Afterward, he returned to Baghdad.
Ibn Battuta’s journey took place-as noted-a little over a century after al-Jazari’s death; he visited Mardin rather than Diyarbakır. Yet, in the eyes of Ibn Battuta and the court poet alike, this Artuqid city rivaled or even surpassed the major cities of the Islamic world, thereby adding a new dimension to the concept of center versus periphery. The cultural flourishing was also still clearly evident: the small principality boasted a court poet and fostered both higher Islamic learning and the arts. While there is no direct information here regarding al-Jazari and his work, if one can speak of a “cultural DNA,” it appears there is a connecting thread linking the Artuqid principality of Diyarbakır—with its cultural flowering in the late 11th and early 12th centuries—to the Artuqid principality encountered through the eyes of Ibn Battuta.














































